Ramon - last authentic Shuar shaman

With the help of Richard Fowler I had chance to meet Ramon - probably the last authentic Shuar shaman who still lives with his extended family deep in the Peruvian jungle. Very gentle man with soft voice, not what you would expect from the person who still remember how to shrink human head. The only signs of civilization I spotted at his place was old shotgun, a few aluminum cooking pots, one empty photo film canister and plastic Coca-Cola bottle converted to the baby rattle. When we arrived Ramon was getting ready for the healing ceremony. Someone from the tribe was very sick, not able to walk. I had chance to accompany Ramon on his canoe trip in search of medical plants. We were paddling down the river for couple hours. Huge footprints of caimans left in the mud was all over. Nothing like in the movie, animals usually hide and avoid humans as much as possible. Most likely they are aware of the shotgun presence in our canoe.
When shaman found right tree he started talking to it, explained why he is here and asked for the healing power, energy. Without any rush and with highest respect he harvested some tree bark, then covered wound of the tree with moss and left some tobacco as offering to the spirits of jungle. Healing ceremony was performed very late at night. I heard distant Ramon's voice chanting ancient rites, caiman splashing in the river, and tree frog performing mating song. I was very tired and struggling to be awake. The sound slowly faded away.