Around the world in... 8 years?

In 2006 I and my brother spent 2 weeks traveling in Burma. It was interesting, but not easy trip. We found that we have to hire car with guide and driver to move around the country. Many places, towns were closed to foreigners and our guide most likely reported about our movement to secret police. He has was kind of stressed  if we getting out of his sight.

While on the road from Bagan to Yangon, we noticed foreigner riding his bicycle loaded with side bags. Not to many foreigners in Burma, seeing one on the bicycle evoke amusement and curiosity. He moved almost as fast as we were going by the old Japanese car on not very good road. By the end of the day, at the hotel we saw bike parked inside. Later we met mysterious traveler. It turns out he was from France. " Tour de France?" - I asked glancing at the bicycle. "No, Tour du Monde."- said man. My jaw dropped.

He was from Normandy, used to work at ship yard and one day just decided just go around the world by bicycle. Just like that. No sponsorship, TV crew or book deal. Hervé LEDUC was traveling since 2004.

We had dinner together. Despite hardships of the road Frenchman was full of energy and very funny dinner companion. He shared with with some his adventure stories. Not long ago he was chased from some Burmese town by local police, because it was off limits for foreigners.
Hervé LEDUC still on the road by this day. He was in France for some time in 2009 because death of his father, and then again, back on the road. I just got a short email from him from China.
Amazing!  What a wonderful way to live life.

Hervé LEDUC. Tour du Monde à Vélo.

Different God

American hotels/motels known for ever present Holy Bible on night stand. I'm not sure what the reason to have Word of God in the rented room. May be to make drifters guilty for sins done at musty motels, o to help to have last dialog with the god before one writes last note. Bible in the motel room plain creepy and disturbing. It was pleasant surprise to find "Teaching of Buddha" instead in one of California's motels. I didn't spent night reading, but bright orange cover of the book cheers up the room.

Rumble in the Jungle

My response to recent attacks against jungle guide and naturalist Richard Fowler and herbalist Alan Shoemaker who live and work in Iquitos, Peru. Someone waging a very primitive and dirty campaign against them.

At Jungle camp.

I have spent 2 weeks in 2004 with Richard in Jungle. I would do it again in a blink of eye. It’s actually only guide in Peru I would trust. This is very competitive trade, somebody trying to smear his reputation and ruin his business. To get an idea what Richard have to offer, one should read book “Trail of Feathers” by Tahir Shah. Author put dedication on the first page: “To Richard for keeping his promises”. This was after first trip with Richard. Bigger and more interesting part in the book was about Richard. If no Richard book would be weak. Tahir paid peanuts for the boat and Richard’s service. Second trip with film crew went sour because they refused pay what promised. Tahir is good writer, but he is a real blue blooded prince. As we all know, princes are spoiled and like to boss around. Rich people always feel that they entitled to service without paying. I’m on the Richard’s side on this. I found Richard after reading this book, so far it was the best trip I ever had.

Richard with his friend Ramon - tribal leader, shaman and healer. Richard proudly displaying skin of previously unknown Giant Jungle Bat he just discovered.

You should be realistic with your expectations, Amazon expedition is nothing like trip to local zoo or park, and you will be dealing with seasoned Vietnam veteran. He is not a summer camp boy scout leader. He is real human being. And some of them likes to drink beer, tell stories and entertain the way they know. I slept like baby in the jungle just because Richard was around. Richard HIGHLY RESPECTED PERSON in remote villages and he works with the BEST and HONEST people. He is welcome guest to any house.


Richard with local Jungle guides Fernando and Meyaer.

Our expedition waiting for the boat.

I met Alan Shoemaker as well, very nice guy who works in Shamanic/spiritual tourism field. Intelligent, helpful and honest person. His house is wide open for everyone. He will help and advice. Just because Alan & Richard and their charming spouses I would like to visit Iquitos again.
In a whole story just follow the money trail. Not too many tourists in Iquitos, but a lot scoundrels after their money. For them its easy money. A lot lodges build around which sell prepackaged tours. Shamanic rituals for thousands of $$$! Just walk in the street in Iquitos, dozens self appointed guides ready to take you for the ride. It’s easy to spread rumors about competitors and harm their business. “They are foreigners strange, alien, not like us. They have all the money anyway, they taking our jobs” Sounds familiar? “I’m good, they are bad. Give me $100.00!”

Richard making American style popcorn for children.


To Gringos. This is A JUNGLE, my friend. THIS IS SOUTH AMERICA. Not a picket fenced community with $ 5.00 morning coffee and 401k plan. Have you noticed that a lot of people even has no shoes here? Have you seen mangy dogs dragging their spilled guts on the street? Do you know that a lot of children not live to reach their fifth birthday. The ones ho live are infected with parasites and lice.
Do you know that porters who cary you bags abandoned their little gardens and hunting just to please you and earn a couple bucks, while their families waiting hungry. You leave generous tip in sushi bar at home, but here you don’t feel like doing it. Do you know how difficult life for ex-pats here? Try to live here. How long you will last. You came back in one piece and be thankful. Next time go to Disneyland or Las Vegas, Basta!


P.S.: Anyone considering to hire Richard as a jungle guide, please bring him a bunch of Punch Maduro cigars. He likes to smoke more than anything. Not a crack, cigars.